Shereen Shabnam
There are dining experiences that delight the senses, and then there are those that linger long after the last bite, unfolding like a story that intertwines heritage, innovation, and vision. ION Harbour by Simon Rogan, perched atop the Iniala Harbour House in Valletta, belongs to the latter. With its unrivalled views of the UNESCO-listed Grand Harbour, this two-Michelin-starred restaurant is as much about place and provenance as it is about culinary artistry.
The mastermind behind this narrative is Simon Rogan MBE, internationally renowned as a pioneer of the farm-to-table movement and Malta is the latest chapter in his journey, where under the leadership of and Head Chef Christian Cali, ION Harbour has carved its own identity while staying faithful to Rogan’s ethos of sustainability and innovation .
From the moment the first course arrived, the evening felt like an ode to Malta’s landscape and seasons. A delicate carrot tartlet layered with lampuki cured in Gozo salts introduced itself with a whisper of the sea, lifted by grapefruit and finished with the silken touch of whipped rock oysters. It was a prelude that carried the essence of Malta’s coastline, setting the stage for the 13-course journey ahead. Each plate that followed unfolded as a chapter, weaving together ingredients foraged, farmed, or fished from the island and its surrounding waters.
One of the most memorable courses was a truffle pudding glazed in carob molasses and stout. It was earthy, dark, and indulgent, yet unexpectedly balanced with sweetness. An aerated and salt-baked boltardy beetroot dish was elevated with ember-smoked amberjack and blackberries, its layers of flavour recalling fire and forest, land and sea.
The raw south coast rossi prawn with sea jelly carried a delicate whisper of brine, punctuated by whey and the subtle salt of smoked pike perch roe. Later, a stuffed day boat seabass arrived, paired with courgettes and watercress and brought together by a roasted bone sauce that spoke to the kitchen’s dedication to whole-animal use and depth of flavour.
Desserts carried the same balance of elegance and restraint. A fig leaf mousse with cherry plums and hazelnuts was a revelation, delicate yet complex, an ode to the Mediterranean orchard. The closing Koji waffle with sheep’s yoghurt and strawberry jam, meanwhile, perfectly encapsulated the restaurant’s mastery of fermentation and preservation, traditions deeply tied to both Maltese culture and Rogan’s philosophy of reducing waste.
What elevated the experience into new territory was the decision to forgo wine in favour of a soft pairing — an innovative curation of kombucha infusions, mocktails, and cordials. Far from a secondary option, each drink mirrored the sophistication of its dish, drawing from preserved fruits, foraged herbs, and carefully fermented bases. A kombucha laced with citrus peel resonated with the brightness of seafood courses, while a mushroom cordial deepened the flavours of earthy mains. These pairings not only refreshed the palate but also embodied the creativity and sustainability that define ION Harbour.
Beyond the table, the restaurant’s commitment to sustainability is profound. The team liaise with local fishermen, salt farmers, goat herders, and honey producers, safeguarding traditions and even reviving endangered breeds and species. Waste becomes an opportunity and fruit skins are turned into vinegars, mushroom trimmings into cordials, and surplus milk into a caramelised goat’s milk jam that supports local farmers. Foraged herbs and seasonal fruits are not only celebrated on the plate but also in the soft pairings, creating a closed loop between land, sea, and table. The luxury of ION Harbour does not lie in opulence alone, but in thoughtfulness. It is luxury redefined and where innovation honours tradition, while fine dining becomes a celebration of both flavour and responsibility.
In the heart of Valletta, with history spread out across the Grand Harbour below, the restaurant offers not just a meal, but a vision: that the future of gastronomy is sustainable, imaginative, and deeply rooted in its place.
